Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2008

Never since the first year in 1972 has La Grande Dame had such a high proportion of Pinot Noir as in 2008: 92%. Initially, Pinot dominated in the 70s, but recently the proportion of Chardonnay has levelled off at just under 40 percent. The first words that come to mind are bold and flamboyant. There is no doubt that the 2008 has power and the brilliant acid structure of the vintage, which can be traced back to the cool but dry, sunny summer. The 2008 Grande Dame consists of Pinot Noir from Ay, Ambonnay, Bouzy, Verzy, Verzenay and Chardonnay in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Mineral sites such as Verzy and Verzenay are said to dominate the Pinot Noir style. The dosage is very low at 3 g per litre. Most of the wines were fermented and matured in wooden barrels, which is being practised again for the first time in 20 years. 

The Grande Dame 2008 smells of dried figs and apricots, ripe pears and hazelnuts. The perlage feels creamy thanks to the ten-year yeast ageing. This vintage has a tingling minerality and nutty flavours, rounded off by a silky texture. Its brilliant acidity means that it will keep for decades. This is a powerful champagne with brilliant acidity that will get better and better for decades. This is the most classic for a while and a style that is not going to return afer cellar master Dominique Demarville left.

This powerful champagne is one of the most impressive 2008s but is not made for early easy drinking, but is a richly nutty challenge with bracing acidity. The silky palate hints at the elegance and harmony that one can expect in the future.