Champagne Paul Bara – the finest Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs Champagnes? – at Alfavin

Key Facts at a Glance

The Bara family has been growing vines in Bouzy since 1833, but it was Paul Bara who, after managing the estate for more than 60 years until his death in 2015, turned it into the benchmark for this Grand Cru village, famous for its Pinot Noir. Under the direction of Chef de Cave Christian Forget, the house remains “still the most quality-obsessed grower in Bouzy. Only the first pressing is used, the wines are aged for at least four years in the cold cellar, and the yield is maintained at the lowest possible level,” as Richard Juhlin writes on champagneclub.com.

Cuvées

The most important cuvées include:

• Brut Réserve Grand Cru

  – e.g. 80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay, no malolactic fermentation, a blend of several vintages.

• Grand Rosé de Bouzy

  The Pinot Noir from Bouzy delivers aromas of cherries, redcurrants, wild strawberries, Moro oranges, grapefruit, pepper, and roses. The remaining 20% Chardonnay adds freshness.

• Millésimé / Grand Cru

  – Vintage Champagne from exceptional years, typically very Pinot-dominated (~90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay).

• Spécial Club

  Vintage Champagne from the oldest vines, aged for an extended period on the lees.

• Marie de France

  Marie de France is one of Bara’s finest Blanc de Noirs, known for its capacity to evolve over decades. Over time, it develops fascinating aromas of roasted hazelnuts and smoky gunpowder. Paul Bara’s 1959 vintage won the Blanc de Noirs category at the most prestigious Champagne tasting of all time, the Millennium Tasting in 1999. In April 2019, I had the chance to taste the outstanding 1982 vintage.

Vineyards and Viticulture

The estate cultivates around 9.5 ha of Pinot Noir and 1.5 ha of Chardonnay, all located entirely within the Grand Cru village of Bouzy. The vineyards are oriented to receive maximum sunlight, ideal for producing ripe, full-bodied Pinot Noirs. The climate is warmer than in Verzenay and Verzy but slightly cooler than in Aÿ. The exceptional quality of the terroir is reflected in the deep, fine-grained chalk soils, which impart mineral freshness and energy that balance the power and structure of the wines.

Bara’s vineyards have an average age of 35–40 years, with the parcels used for Marie de France and Spécial Club considerably older. The naturally low yields are further reduced by hand-pruning buds in spring. Although not certified organic, Bara follows sustainable viticulture principles, minimising chemical inputs. The estate is certified under HVE (Haute Valeur Environnementale) and VDC (Viticulture Durable en Champagne).

Winemaking

The house uses only the free-run juice from the first pressing, known in Champagne as the “cuvée.” Fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks. The only exception is the small-production Annonciade cuvée, which is vinified in oak barrels. Malolactic fermentation is generally avoided. Reserve wines for Brut Réserve and Extra Brut are stored in glass-lined concrete tanks. The lees ageing period is already above average for Brut Réserve and Grand Rosé de Bouzy – and for Marie de France it extends to almost nine years.

History

In 1833, Auguste François Bara settled in Bouzy and worked as a cooper. In 1836, he married Annonciade Robert, whose family owned vineyards in Bouzy, and began producing wine. After several generations of selling grapes to other houses, Paul Bara started bottling Champagne under his own name in the early 1950s. His daughter Chantal joined the family estate in 1980 and, by 1986, was managing the business alongside her father. Today, she runs Paul Bara together with her daughter Stéphanie Ducloux. In 2023, after 30 years at Bara, cellar master Christian Forget retired and was succeeded by winemaker Grégory Baert.

Conclusion

Paul Bara Champagnes reveal, after a few years of ageing, a remarkable harmony between fruity and nutty-toasted aromas. With Marie de France 2008 and 2015, Alfavin offers one of the finest Pinot Noir Champagnes, capable of developing fascinating complexity over decades.