Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2009

Clos des Goisses is a famously steep vineyard in Mareuil sur Ay of 5,5 ha that Philipponnat bought in 1935.  Mareuil strangely enough has been qualified as premier rather than grand cru which is incredible when one looks at the quality of Clos des Goisses which is one of the finest champagnes. In most years over half of the base wines are fermented in oak. 

The 2009 is exceptional and probably the biggest and most flamboyant wine of the vintage. The 70 % pinot noir and 30 % chardonnay blend is the typical cuvee. The dosage is extra but and it was kept on the lees for eight years. It even surpasses the leaner 2008 of the house. It is an explosive, rich mix of nougat, hazelnut, honey, caramel, apricot, raspberry and gooseberry. 

What impresses is how one of the most powerful champagnes can have so much mineral focus and tension.

Richard Juhlin champagneclub.com 95(93) One of the largest 09's with lovely pondus and nutty richness. Generous, but compact and full of exciting flavors that will be developed and layered nicely for many years from now. Magnificent fruit, but even more hazelnut cream, nougat, honey and smoky serious notes.

Antonio Galloni vinous.com 96+ ...White flowers, orchard fruit, mint, white petter and citrus peel add to the wine's brigth profile. Readers should plan on being extremely patient,, as the 2009 Goisses does not show much, if any, early appeal, even if the density and textural persistence of the great years are both there.

750 mL

Champagne

Pinot Noir & Chardonnay

Sulphites

• Extra Brut

France

Champagne Philipponnat 13 Rue Du Pont 51160 Mareuil sur Ay, Frankreich