Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame 2008

• Full-bodied, complex Pinot Noir champagne
• The last classic Grande Dame before the change of the Stis

Never since the first year in 1972 has La Grande Dame had such a high proportion of Pinot Noir as in 2008: 92%. Initially, Pinot dominated in the 70s, but recently the proportion of Chardonnay has levelled off at just under 40 percent. The first words that come to mind are bold and flamboyant. There is no doubt that the 2008 has power and the brilliant acid structure of the vintage, which can be traced back to the cool but dry, sunny summer. The 2008 Grande Dame consists of Pinot Noir from Ay, Ambonnay, Bouzy, Verzy, Verzenay and Chardonnay in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Mineral sites such as Verzy and Verzenay are said to dominate the Pinot Noir style. The dosage is very low at 3 g per litre. Most of the wines were fermented and matured in wooden barrels, which is being practised again for the first time in 20 years. 

The Grande Dame 2008 smells of dried figs and apricots, ripe pears and hazelnuts. The perlage feels creamy thanks to the ten-year yeast ageing. This vintage has a tingling minerality and nutty flavours, rounded off by a silky texture. Its brilliant acidity means that it will keep for decades. This is a powerful champagne with brilliant acidity that will get better and better for decades. This is the most classic for a while and a style that is not going to return afer cellar master Dominique Demarville left.

This powerful champagne is one of the most impressive 2008s but is not made for early easy drinking, but is a richly nutty challenge with bracing acidity. The silky palate hints at the elegance and harmony that one can expect in the future.

95(93) Richard Juhlin champagneclub.com A new stylish Clicquot yellow label and a remarkable grape content. Certainly, the marketers at Clicquot emphasize that all Pinot was selected from mineral elegant vineyards, with Verzy and Verzenay as dominants, so that the difference should not be so big against that of Jacques Peter's Chardonnay style that has ruled for a while in this famous prestige cuvée. Personally, I like Dominiques initiative against a more Pinot-driven La Grande Dame when the biggest vintages of the 70's had a powerful chocolate saturated Pinot Noir in the driver's seat. My relatively restrained score is due to the fact that I think the little three grams of sugar the wine has is too little. The wine is sparkling clean and crisp with a lovely minerality and inherent power, but it will take nearly ten years before the generosity received the full scope and low sugar content felt totally justified. A great wine is in any event.

750 mL

12.5

Champagne

Pinot Noir & Chardonnay

Sulphites

• Extra Brut

France

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, 1 Rue Albert Thomas, 51100