Champagne Larmandier-Bernier at Alfavin

Modern Methods and a Personal Style

Larmandier-Bernier interprets exceptional Chardonnay vineyards using the typical methods of a modern winemaker in the premium Champagne segment.

This includes:

• Perfectly maintained vineyards of old vines, cultivated biodynamically;
• Harvesting ripe, aromatic grapes from low yields;
• Oxidative maturation in oak barrels, which imparts exciting wood spice;
• Minimal to zero dosage for freshness and clarity;
• Abandonment of interventions like pumping, filtration, and fining;
• Minimal use of sulphur;

The great terroirs are already capable of producing very high-quality Champagne. However, there is also a highly distinctive style that cannot be reduced to simple facts.

Nevertheless, some points stand out:

• - A longer lees aging, which supports a full, creamy mouthfeel;
• - Larger oak barrels made in Austria with a subtler roasting, likely washed, resulting in a lower oak profile compared to many competitors;
• - Slightly higher pressure during bottling, somewhere between the modernists who use four bar to create a sparkling still wine and the traditionalists. This results in a livelier mousse.

In conclusion, it can be said that the old vines from the best plots express the terroir and chalky finesse in perfect purity. These Champagnes have great intensity and a creamy mouthfeel. The use of oak is subtle and plays a background role. These Champagnes improve over 10 to 15 years.

The Vertus terroir reveals its power and the intensity of the fruit, with the oak influence more pronounced. Even when young, it has a good drinking window, but it improves over time.

Longitude is not as concentrated but with good drinking window early on. Even at this quality, the chalky-fresh characteristics of the terroir are evident. The maturation is a mix of reductive tank aging and oak use, creating a lovely harmony of fruit and spice.

The Cuvées of Larmandier-Bernier

Les Longitudes

Les Longitudes is made from vineyards in Vertus, Oger, Avize, and Cramant, all of which lie around the 4th meridian. Today, the wine is fully matured in Stockinger oak foudres, where it also undergoes malolactic fermentation. It has 2g of dosage and combines minerality with delicate fruit and a very subtle hint of oak spice. It is not as concentrated as the Vertus, as the grapes are not as old.

Terre de Vertus

In 1995, they decided to bottle and market the Vertus vineyard separately. Vertus is only a Premier Cru because many of its soils in the southern part are less chalky and more clay-based, better suited to Pinot Noir. However, the northern part has fine-grained belemnite chalk, similar to that found in Le Mesnil. The plot is located in the middle of the slope, the best part. Typical of Vertus are lemony aromas, but depending on the vintage, there are also notes of ripe apple. Today, the Terre de Vertus undergoes malolactic fermentation in Stockinger oak foudres. Previously, half of it was aged in tanks. After around six years on the lees, the Terre de Vertus is disgorged without dosage. Despite its chalky freshness and nuanced fruit, Vertus is a concentrated Champagne that does not achieve the subtle filigree of Chemins d'Avize.

Vieilles Vignes du Levant

The Bourron du Levant plot in Cramant has been owned by the Larmandiers for many years. In 1988, Pierre decided to bottle this exceptional terroir separately as Cramant Vieilles Vignes. Since 2007, this Champagne has carried its current name.

The style of this Champagne comes from the concentration of the minimal yields of these 65 to 85-year-old vines and the intense sunlight on this perfectly sun-facing plot. Vieilles Vignes du Levant is a concentrated, full-bodied Chardonnay Champagne. The minerality of this exceptional terroir and the deep rooting of the old vines also provide a counterpoint of lively mineral freshness.

Les Chemins d'Avize

Pierre Larmandier's best plots in Avize are called Chemin de Flavigny and Chemin de Plivot. They were planted in the late 1950s, produce very small yields, and are extremely deep-rooted. The first vintage in which this Champagne was bottled separately was 2009. The barren belemnite limestone gives the wines a solid structure and mineral intensity. Chemins d'Avize has a playful elegance and complex fruity, nutty, floral aromas, spiced with a refined touch of oak. The dosage is 2 g/l. If you prefer elegance, it is even more impressive than the Vieilles Vignes du Levant.

Vineyards and Vineyard Work

Larmandier-Bernier owns 18 hectares in Vertus, Chouilly, Cramant, Avize, and Oger. The average age of the vines is over 35 years, but many of the best plots have extremely old vines. The estate works its vineyards in harmony with nature. The approach is biodynamic, based on the principles of organic farming, promoting soil and vine health. By avoiding chemical pesticides and fertilisers, biodiversity in the vineyards is protected. The harvest is done by hand to select only the best grapes.

The History of Larmandier-Bernier

As early as the beginning of the 20th century, the Larmandiers supplied famous restaurants like La Tour d'Argent and Taillivent in Paris with Champagne. A new chapter began with the marriage of Philippe Larmandier to Elisabeth Bernier, which marked the start of a new era. Elisabeth brought vineyards in Vertus into the marriage, and the estate grew significantly.

In 1982, Philippe passed away, and Pierre assisted his mother at a very young age before she handed over the management of the estate to him in 1988. Today, their sons, Arthur and Georges, manage much of the day-to-day operations in the vineyards and cellar.

Conclusion

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier impresses with the fine-tuning of the best handcrafted techniques in modern Champagne production. In every respect, they adapt, test, and optimise. The result combines the authentic expression of the terroirs in its purest form, yet with its own distinct signature. The top cuvées, Vieilles Vignes du Levant and Chemin d'Avize, are among the greatest Chardonnay Champagnes.