Personal advice
The Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises is an exclusive, rare cuvée made 100% from Pinot Noir. The grapes come from ungrafted, own-rooted old vines that escaped the phylloxera plagues.
These vines are located in two small, walled vineyard plots called Clos Saint-Jacques and Clos Chaudes Terres in Aÿ.
While the most famous Aÿ parcels lie on the north bank of the Marne and slope steeply southwards, these two plots are situated on the plateau not far from Bollinger's historic headquarters.
Unlike the famous Côte aux Enfants site, VVF is not characterised by opulent fullness. Its extraordinary aromatic depth and incredibly fine structure are unique. Structure usually comes with a certain mineral hardness and overt bitterness – here it is subtle and supple.
Nevertheless, the exceptional concentration can create an almost oily, opulent texture.
In the first decades of the last century, Bollinger planted new vineyards on resistant rootstocks. These were scattered parcels that went into the Vintage and R.D. cuvées.
When only the two Aÿ parcels Chaudes Terres & Clos St-Jacques and the small Croix Rouge parcel in Bouzy remained, it was decided to market them separately for the first time in the 1969 vintage. Together they cover barely half a hectare.
Some years ago, Croix Rouge was grafted onto resistant rootstocks because phylloxera attacked the old vines and they were slowly but surely dying off.
The remaining two small vineyards have the status of protected cultural heritage. The surrounding walls provide better protection against phylloxera. Bollinger tends the vineyards entirely by hand. Dead vines are replaced using the Provinage system: canes from neighbouring vines are buried in the ground so they take root. This not only gives particularly deep roots, but also connects all the vines together. As a result, water and nutrients can be exchanged very efficiently. Ripeness and grape quality are therefore particularly even.
Cyril Ray (1908–1991) was a renowned British wine writer, journalist and author, famous for his elegant and insightful books on wine. He wrote extensively about Champagne and Bordeaux, including biographies of major houses. In connection with Bollinger, Ray is best known for his book "Bollinger: The Story of a Champagne" (first published in 1971, later editions titled "Bollinger: Tradition of a Champagne Family").
Ray was a great admirer of Bollinger and had a close relationship with the family, especially with Lily Bollinger (the impressive matriarch who ran the house from 1941 until her death in 1977). During his visits to Aÿ in the 1960s, Ray was fascinated by the tiny, still surviving ungrafted, own-rooted Pinot Noir parcels that had escaped the phylloxera plague at the end of the 19th century.
At that time, the grapes from these rare, pre-phylloxera vines were used in the Vintage cuvée. Cyril Ray suggested to Lily Bollinger that these exceptional old vines should be vinified separately as a prestige cuvée, to highlight their unique character and historical significance. At that time, there were still several parcels, but they were becoming increasingly rare.
The first vintage of Vieilles Vignes Françaises was produced in 1969. It is still magnificent today.