- A great year for Clos des Goisses
- Already good, but only at the beginning of a long development
Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 2009 shows that the powerful, complex style comes out best in ripe, warm years, which is why 2009 is better than the mineral and acidic 2008. Clos des Goisses is the warmest vineyard in the whole of Champagne, but its chalky soil is among the finest. As a result, it still has a salty mineral component. Clos des Goiesses is a famous steep vineyard in Mareuil sur Ay with an area of 5.5 hectares. The south-facing slope drops 45% to the Marne and is considered the steepest vineyard in Champagne. In most years, more than half of the base wines are fermented in oak. Malolactic fermentation is prevented. The dosage is very low.
Clos des Goisses is a famous steep vineyard in Mareuil sur Ay with an area of 5.5 hectares. The south-facing slope falls 45% towards the Marne and is considered the steepest vineyard in Champagne. In most years, more than half of the base wines are fermented in oak. Malolactic fermentation is prevented. The dosage is very low.
Philipponnat bought the vineyard in 1935. At the time of the Great Depression, steep vineyards that were costly to cultivate were unpopular and the price was low. In 1935, the decision was made to process and market the grapes separately as Clos des Goisses. At that time, this was an absolutely unusual step, as blending was considered the art of champagne. Chardonnay dominated at that time. It was not until the plantings of the 1960s that Pinot Noir came into its own.
This terroir combines exceptionally intense sunshine and warmth with the finest Belemnite limestone, which gives the wines their mineral structure and focus. Philipponat's good reputation is based on this unique location.
The 2009 is exceptional and probably the greatest and most extravagant wine of the vintage. The blend of 70 % Pinot Noir and 30 % Chardonnay is the typical cuvée. It was extra-dosed and aged on the lees for eight years. It even surpasses the rather hard 2008 of the house. It is an explosive, rich blend of nougat, hazelnut, stewed apple, honey, caramel, apricot, raspberry and gooseberry.
It is impressive how one of the most powerful champagnes can have so much mineral focus and tension.
Read about Clos des Goisses 2009 on cellar tracker
