Personal advice
2009 shows that the powerful, complex style comes out best in ripe, warm years, which is why 2009 is better than the mineral and acidity-driven 2008. Clos des Goisses is the warmest vineyard in all of Champagne, but the chalk soil is among the finest. Thus, it still has a salty mineral component. Clos des Goisses is a famous steep vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ with an area of 5.5 ha. The south-facing slope drops with 45% toward the Marne and is considered the steepest vineyard in Champagne. In most years, more than half of the base wines are fermented in oak. Malolactic fermentation is prevented. The dosage is very low.
Philipponnat bought the vineyard in 1935. At the time of the Great Depression, steep, labor-intensive vineyards were unpopular and the price was favorable. Immediately, they decided in 1935 to process and market the grapes separately as Clos des Goisses. At that time, this was an absolutely unusual step because blending was considered the art of Champagne. At that time, Chardonnay dominated. Only with the plantings of the 60s did Pinot Noir come to the fore.
This terroir combines exceptionally intense sunlight and warmth with the finest Belemnite chalk, which provides mineral structure and focus to the wines. Philipponnat's good reputation is based on this unique site.
It even surpasses the rather hard 2008 from the house. It is an explosive, rich mixture of nougat, hazelnut, apple compote, honey, caramel, apricot, raspberry and gooseberry.
It is impressive how one of the most powerful Champagnes can have so much mineral focus and tension.
Drinking window: now until 2040+ (great aging potential)
A glance at the Alfavin cellar
A glance at the Alfavin cellar
A glance at the Alfavin Cellar