Antonio Galloni captures it perfectly on *Vinous*: “Cristal 2009 is a wine of pure and total sensuality.” Positioned between the great vintages of 2008 and 2013, 2009 is often overlooked, as the vintage has plenty of charm but not the same grandeur — and there is no other 2009 comparable to Cristal. Today, it rivals the 2013 for sheer drinking pleasure, while we patiently cellar the 2008. Richard Juhlin rates all three with 97 (95), although they can hardly be compared.
Antonio Galloni captures it perfectly on *Vinous*: “Cristal 2009 is a wine of pure and total sensuality.”
Before buying Cristal 2009 Champagne, one must ask whether one prefers the distinctly mineral and fresh Cristal vintages, or the fuller, creamier ones such as 2009, 2006, or 2002.
2009 was a ripe, fruit-driven year, and Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon created a well-structured, long-lived Cristal by avoiding malolactic fermentation and using a low dosage. Its slow evolution goes far beyond what is typical for the vintage.
Nevertheless, 2009 does not possess the subtle, mineral elegance of the 2008 Cristal, which is not closed but still at the beginning of its long journey towards full maturity. The 2009 impresses with its ripe fruit appeal — melon, peach, lemon, a hint of hazelnut and caramel — and one taster in our group even noted mango and apple. That may sound almost too much of a good thing, yet these aromas gradually build in the glass, layer by layer, into a crescendo, rather than overwhelming the senses from the start. The mouthfeel is creamier than the more mineral 2008, but despite its richness, it is well-structured by acidity and supported by a deep mineral core beneath the fruit.
Cristal 2009 is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. The Pinot Noir grapes come mainly from Cristal’s own vineyards in Verzenay and Verzy, as well as from Aÿ and Beaumont-sur-Vesle. The Chardonnay comes primarily from Avize, with smaller portions from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant.
The 2009 vintage was fermented 20% in oak barrels and 80% in stainless steel tanks. Malolactic fermentation was not carried out. After six years on the lees, it was disgorged with 6 g/l.
A glance at the Alfavin cellar
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