The typical lemon fruit aromas of Comtes are even more intense in 2002, and the maturity of the vintage is evident in a full and concentrated palate. Thanks to its unusually good acidity structure, it is only at the beginning of its drinking window, while 2004 and 2000 are already significantly more developed. In addition to lemon, it displays the typical toasted notes of Comtes. After 40 hours of aeration, it develops perfect harmony and the aromas of freshly roasted coffee beans come to the fore.
The vines awoke early from their dormant period and were no longer slowed down by late frosts. Flowering took place under almost perfect conditions, meaning disease pressure remained minimal. In summer, long sunny spells alternated with short periods of cloud, which brought just enough rain to keep the vines robust and free of stress. As ripening approached, a moderate shrinking of the berries set in, resulting in small yields, high sugar levels and concentrated musts. Acidity levels are not high, but temperatures were also not so elevated that the acidity was excessively reduced. Over the past 30 years, 1996 and 2008 stand out as structured, acid-driven years, while 2002 is the outstanding vintage among the ripe years.
At present, the fruit of ripe lemons dominates, accompanied in the background by toasted aromas supported by the beginnings of roasted notes. Some bottles, however, appear even younger, with ripe lemon aromas, vanilla and hints reminiscent of Puligny-Montrachet dominating. Over the next ten years, the roasted notes will become increasingly noticeable and develop towards coffee. Such analogies are never perfect, but one may imagine opening a fresh packet of espresso beans. Further development will bring additional balsamic notes. Fresh citrus fruit shifts towards candied citrus zest, with the lemon notes becoming less clearly defined and showing hints of orange. The mousse becomes increasingly gentle, and oxidative notes may appear. For us, these belong to truly mature Champagne. They have nothing to do with oxidation as premature ageing through poor storage or a defective cork. One can then continue to drink Comtes over several days; in most cases, the oxidative notes even diminish with aeration.
A glance at the Alfavin cellar
A glance at the Alfavin cellar
A glance at the Alfavin Cellar