Guy Charlemagne – Champagne from Le Mesnil at Alfavin
The Guy Charlemagne estate is located in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, and the best vineyards are in this Grand Cru. Even before Avize, Le Mesnil is considered the best Grand Cru for Chardonnay. Naturally, the ratings in Champagne are somewhat superficial, as they, unlike in Burgundy or Germany, often group very heterogeneous micro-terroirs together.
When one has the opportunity to taste the house's best wine, the B.C. Origine, you understand why Charlemagne is even counted by Richard Juhlin among the champions of the area, alongside Krug’s Clos du Mesnil, Salon, and Pierre Péters Chétillons.
Our impression over the years has been somewhat mixed. Guy – highly regarded but also a difficult character, who has now handed over the estate to his two daughters – still thought in categories that feel rather old-fashioned today: On the one hand, he catered to the mass market with highly dosed but well-made Réserve Blanc de Blancs. On the other hand, with other cuvées aimed at a more discerning audience, he tried to appeal to different target groups. Guy mastered the craft of producing the perfect Le Mesnil, but aside from the pursuit of commercial success, there was a lack of a clear style based on a consistent concept, which we find with many younger producers.
The Cuvées of Guy Charlemagne
Mesnillésime
Mesnillésime is made up of half wines fermented in stainless steel tanks, which also undergo malolactic fermentation. The other half is aged in oak barrels that have been used for two to four previous vintages but still impart some toasty flavors. Since the vines are 70 years old, the concentrated musts can absorb the oak without it becoming too dominant. The malolactic fermentation is stopped in the oak barrels.
Mesnillésime is the most modern Champagne of the house and can typically be enjoyed young.
Cuvée Charlemagne Les Coulmets
Even though it costs less, the Champagne from the Les Coulmets parcel may be the best generally available Charlemagne. Les Coulmets, like the better-known Les Chétillons, is located in the middle part of Le Mesnil’s slope, with the ideal soil for great Chardonnay. Without the influence of new oak, the full refinement of the Le Mesnil terroir is showcased. Fine fruit meets crisp acidity and a lively yet not overly tight minerality. Due to the long yeast aging, toasty notes develop.
Cuvée B.C. Origine
This cuvée is traditionally fermented in old barrels and does not undergo malolactic fermentation. It often ages for 15 years or more on the lees. It is a tribute to the older generation. As great as it is, only a few magnums are produced, which are rarely available in the market.
Vineyards and Vineyard Work
Guy Charlemagne owns 6 hectares in Le Mesnil, 1 hectare in Oger, and 7 hectares in less renowned regions like Sézanne. The vineyards are conventionally managed, but with an effort to maintain sustainability and minimal use of pesticides.
While the soils in Oger have a bit more clay and create a fruitier, less structured style, Le Mesnil is still, before Avize, the terroir with the highest chalk content. The better plots are worked by hand, with a focus on limiting yields.
Cellar Techniques
In the cellar, Guy Charlemagne uses traditional methods of Champagne production to preserve the authenticity and terroir of his wines. The grapes are gently pressed and fermented in tanks. For Mesnillésime, about half of the wine is aged in oak, which is neither new nor old, but influences the aromas in the first years after disgorging. The dosage is slightly higher than the current trend. While modern Blanc de Blancs are dosed immediately to be ready to drink, Charlemagne follows the tradition of aging the Champagnes for a few years so that the dosage and sugar break down in the Maillard reaction. The higher residual sugar allows the Champagnes to age longer, and after a few years, the harmony is perfect.
