Krug Vintage 2011 is an exceptional, rare success
In a vintage that many critics considered difficult and inconsistent, the traditional Krug house surprises with a remarkably harmonious and charming Krug Vintage 2011. While many 2011 champagnes are soft and unstructured, Krug succeeds in combining freshness, depth and aromatic diversity. Even the bouquet is intense and nuanced: Fine herbal aromas of mint, basil and sage combine with notes of apricot, lemon, green apple and subtle roasted flavours. Vanilla and caramel refine the flavour. A key element for the freshness and structure of the wine is the omission of malolactic fermentation - an unusual but deliberately chosen step that gives the wine tension and mineral clarity. As frustratingly high as the acidity can be in some classic vintages, in 2011 it makes all the difference.
The 2011 vintage is a cuvée of 46% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay and 13% Pinot Meunier. Krug is the only house to use Pinot Meunier in a vintage of this calibre that does not even come from prestigious vineyards. However, the Meunier wines from the Coulommes-la-Montagne, Saint Gemme and Villevenard vineyards are made from extremely old vines and have a completely different character to the fruity Meunier we are used to. The sources for Pinot Noir are Ambonnay, Aÿ, Bouzy, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, for Chardonnay Avize, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Trépail, Villers-Marmery
We took our time deciding whether to buy 2011 at all. We waited until the strongest flavours of the yeast ageing had faded to be able to make a more objective assessment.
Krug is different: Grande Cuvée and Vintage
With an annual production of around 700,000 bottles, Krug is one of the smaller but most prestigious houses in Champagne. The foundation of its success is the Grande Cuvée - formerly known as the Private Cuvée - whose aim is to preserve a house style over the years through the skilful composition of the cuvée from countless barrels from different sites and vintages. It is possible that even the best barrels from a remarkable vintage are used for the Grande Cuvée, even if these wines have the potential for a vintage. Access to exceptionally high-quality grapes from old vines and top vineyards is a decisive factor here. Krug not only pays the highest prices in Champagne - it is considered an honour to be allowed to deliver grapes to Krug.
Only if, after selecting the base wines for the Grande Cuvée, there are still enough barrels left that reflect the character of a vintage at the highest level, does the house decide to produce a Vintage>. The aim is not to reproduce a standardised drinking experience - as Dom Pérignon, for example, strives to do - but to express the character of the respective year as purely and precisely as possible. In the structured 2008 vintage, Krug produces a particularly acidic, firm Vintage 2008, and in the charming 2004 vintage, an elegant, seductive Vintage.
Krug Vintage 2011 vintage in the context of other Krug vintages
In terms of style, Krug Vintage 2011 is the exact opposite of the structured and closed 2008 vintage. While the 2008 is characterised by taut acidity and strict concentration, the 2011 is open, accessible and harmonious right from the start. It does not have the depth of the legendary 2002, and can best be compared stylistically with the charming 2004 - even if it remains to be seen whether it will fully reach its class
Conclusion
Krug proves that even a challenging year can produce exceptional wines - provided you have the right instincts, uncompromising quality standards and access to the best grapes in the region.
